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S90 and CL90 Tail Lights
S90's of the same year had different shapes and sizes of rear tail lights depending on which part of the world they were built for.  This is only a start to identify the tail light so if you have any information to help complete this, please email me at  r_christenson@yahoo.com
 
#1 Stanley 6-0255
Aluminum back plate ,
Used on early model S90 until 1966 and came with the small rectangular blinkers.  Not imported to the USA

Canada S90 1965
Benly90 1966

#2 Stanley RR30
Aluminum back plate
USA S90 1964-1966
#3 Stanley HM-5RC or HM-6RC
Chrome steel back plate
USA S90 & CL90 1967-1968

Indonesia 1968-1969

#4 Stanley HM-11RC
USA  S90 & CL901969-70

Indonesia 1970
 

1
Canada
Stanley 6-0255
33701-028-000
 


2
USA, England,
France & Germany
Stanley RR30
33701-268-000
33701-268-600
 

3
France & USA
Stanley
HM-5RC. FWIW
33701-041-601
33701-041-671
33701-041-672

4
33701-323-631

 

Notice how the serial numbers overlap
1.  S90-115952-142498 & S90-424487-640504
2.  S90-111565-142498 & S90-424487-751217
3.  S90-640505-800147
4.  S90-111565-142-498 & 424487-640504

Honda S90 Cool features of a 1965:
The Honda 90 OHC (Over Head Cam) engine was introduced in 1964.  I like following product changes, some to reduce cost others to improve reliability and others to adapt to different needs.  The 1965 S90 I just took apart has some interesting features.

Notice the small tube that directs oil to the clutch gear.  This was eliminated in future models.  It also has the a gear type oil pump.



Above picture shows the drain plug with the removable cover held on with 4 bolts to provide access to the oil screen.  This is nice because you can service the engine without removing the large side cover.  This was a feature I believe was removed to reduce cost.  The oil screen is a different shape and I hope to find a new replacement someday.



The cam chain adjustment has a lock.  This feature was eliminated in about 66 but brought back in some model in 1973.
Also notice the serial number is located on the left side of the case half instead of on the right side.

 

S90 Early Wrist Pin

The early wrist pins for the S90 were lightened as seen in the section view in the left picture.

Right Picture: Shows a lightened early wrist pin on the left and a later on the right.

This removed material doesn't weaken the part, it only removes unneeded material to improve performance.  This is something you typically would only see in a race engine.  The extra step to remove the material was likely eliminated to reduce cost. 

Left Piston is from an early 1965 S90, notice the  later piston on the right has a flat area that was probably added to reduce compression and the divot for the exhaust valve clearance is deeper.

The early piston on the left has thinner walls and is lighter.  For performance the lighter the better, as long as it hold together.

Gel Cell Battery Don't Work!!
6/1/05
I tried a gel cell battery, bad idea, the battery blew the top off and every light on the bike burned out.  The gel cell battery needs a voltage regulator and the S90 doesn't use one on its charging system.  Use the standard lead acid battery that the bike is designed to use.

 
 
5/28/05  No Second Gear:

S90 Shifter Drum:  Notice the groove to the left and how the point is worn away.  Because of this it wouldn't shift into second gear.


This is a bent shift fork (second gear problem).  When a circular wear mark is present like in the above picture, it is likely bent.
Always check all dimensions before installing.

 

The dogs on second gear are worn and rounded.

5/26/05 Clutch Failure:
It is very likely that the clutch was not properly torqued to the crankshaft and ran loose, causing the clutch failure.  I don't think this is a common problem.

 

 

 

 

6/18/05 & 10/3/06  Clutch Disk Failure

The clutch disk pads separated from the metal disk.  It appears to be caused from corrosion of the steel causing the adhesive to let loose.  The clutches that I had this happen to were sitting for many years outside the engine and may never of happened if covered in oil inside the engine.   It might be a good idea to put in new clutch disks, even if they are not worry out.

The rectifier converts the alternating current (AC) from the stator to direct current (DC) to charge the battery and run the lights and ignition.  It is a simple devise that is made up of 4 diodes.  Technology has improved since 1965 and an of the shelf rectifier is a good replacement.  I have used them on wind turbines and purchased them by the box from Newark InOne http://www.newark.com/.  You can get them form Radio Shack or check on ebay for a kit.

The rectifier has 4 terminals, +, -, ac, ac

The + (positive) connects to the red wire.
The - (negative) connects to the frame.
The pink and the yellow wires connect to the ac terminals, doesn't matter which ones.

I bent a piece of aluminum to mount the rectifier and extended the wires.

 

This is what the old rectifier looks like.  On the 1965 it was located under the seat on the left side, other years they are located inside the frame.

Engine Case Bolts: M6x1
Left: Original Honda phillips screw
Middle: Newer Honda bolt. (8mm socket)
Right: Aftermarket SS bolt.

To remove the soft phillips screws use an impact driver.
 

The phillips screws strip the heads easy and are usually a problem so I always toss the phillips screws and find a SS bolt kit on Ebay. (about$15)  It make it easy to torque screws and to disassemble. 
The best screws in my opinion are the ones found on the later Honda's from about the mid 80's and up, they are a hex head that use an 8mm socket but are expensive if they come from the Honda dealer.

The kits in the picture came from
Burks Motorsports

http://www.westcoastmc.com/

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